Faded 1930s décor: check. Boisterous crowd: check. Thick steak with real frites: check. Good value: check. The Paul Bert delivers everything you could want from a traditional Paris bistro, so it's no wonder its two dining rooms (one recently added) fill every night with a cosmopolitan crowd. Some are from the neighborhood, others clutch copies of Gourmetor the Financial Times, but they've all come in search of the elusive balance of ingredients that makes for a feel-good experience every time. The impressively stocked wine cellar helps a lot, as do the laid-back yet efficient staff and hearty dishes such as monkfish with white beans and duck with pears—note that it's prix fixe only. If you're looking for an inexpensive wine, choose from the chalkboard rather than the wine list.
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