Residents of Montmartre are breathing a sigh of relief: they no longer have to leave the neighborhood to find a good-value bistro. Run by a trio who honed their skills at Lavinia, La Tour d'Argent, and Aux Lyonnais, this red-and-gray bistro with a glass roof at the back serves just the kind of sophisticated comfort food everyone hopes to find in Paris. A meal might start with a plate of cochonailles(pâté, cured sausage, and deboned pig's trotter with onion jam) or perhaps a salad of whelks and white beans, before hearty main courses such as a stunning beef rib for two with sautéed potatoes or duck breast with chanterelle mushrooms and a slice of panfried foie gras. To finish, it's hard to choose between the aged Beaufort cheese or the vanilla pot de crème, served with shortbread and chocolate financiers (almond cakes).
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