Built as the market neighborhood's answer to Notre-Dame, this massive church is decidedly squeezed into its surroundings. Constructed between 1532 and 1640, with foundations dating to 1200, the church mixes a Gothic exterior, complete with impressive flying buttresses, and a Renaissance interior. On the east end, adjacent to the Chapelle de la Vierge (Chapel of the Virgin), Dutch master Rubens' Pilgrims of Emmaus (1611) hangs in a small chapel. Two chapels to the left you will find Keith Haring's The Life of Christ, a triptych in bronze and white-gold patina. It was given to the church after the American artist's death in 1990, in recognition of the crusading parish's efforts to help victims of AIDS. If you like choral music, be sure to consult the concert schedule. Outside is the gigantic stone head with a hand cupped to its ear: L'Ecoute by Henri de Miller. On the side of the church on Rue Montmartre, look for the small door to Saint Agnes's crypt, topped with a stone plaque noting the date, 1213, below a curled fish, an indication the patron made his fortune in fish.
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