David Rathgeber spent 12 years working for Alain Ducasse as chef of Aux Lyonnais and then Benoît before taking over this landmark restaurant, where he has created his own menu and welcomed a devoted clientele. Expect bourgeois classics with a subtle modern touch, perhaps white tuna steak with spinach, lemon, capers, and croutons, and crème caramel with salted butter—all executed with the precision you would expect of a Ducasse veteran. The excellent two-course lunch
menu is a bargain at €23. Each month, the tea "tasting ateliers" span the globe via the world's great teas, pairing these grand cru's with French cuisine.