Having paid his dues in the tiny kitchen of Le Temps au Temps near the Bastille, Lyonnais chef Sylvain Sendra is now happily ensconced in the spacious former premises of the noted Chez Toutoune. The once-faded surroundings have been revitalized with taupe walls, a long table d'hôtes (shared table), and a bar for solo meals or tapas-style snacks. Sendra's cooking, meanwhile, is as inspired as ever. Menu highlights include a tart of foie gras, duck confit, and nutmeg;
cod poached in a vegetable and sage bouillon; and a deconstructed lemon tart with a touch of celery. A good wine list with some reasonable bottles and a well-conceived selection of wines by the glass to pair with the meal. Prices run the gamut from a €32 two-course lunch to an €85 degustation menu at dinner.