Having paid his dues in the tiny kitchen of Le Temps au Temps near the Bastille, young Lyonnais chef Sylvain Sendra is now happily ensconced in the spacious former premises of the noted Chez Toutoune. The once-faded surroundings have been revitalized and the taupe walls, a long table d'hôtes(shared table), and a bar for solo meals or tapas-style snacks are all new. Sendra's cooking, meanwhile, is as inspired as ever. Menu highlights include green asparagus with foie gras sauce and morsels of dried tuna, duck breast with beet and raspberry, and a deconstructed lemon tart with a touch of celery. Not everything works perfectly and there is the occasional glaring flaw, but EUR 36 for three courses seems a reasonable price to pay for this level of creativity and comfort.
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