If you dream of finding the perfect steak-frites in Paris, head for this eccentric little place run by a former architect. The chairs in this cheerful yellow-and-red dining room appear to have been salvaged from a theater. They pair nicely with the owner Patrice Tatard's theatrical streak; he often refers to first-time diners as "my loves." There is no questioning Tatard's enthusiasm for his new vocation when you taste the steak in its trademark creamy, peppercorn-studded sauce, accompanied by hand-cut french fries cooked to crisp perfection. Aside from steak dishes, there is little else on the menu.
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