Revamped with dark African wood, rich leather, cream-color marble, and the chef's own art collection, Guy Savoy's luxury restaurant doesn't dwell on the past. Come here for a perfectly measured haute-cuisine experience, since Savoy's several bistros have not lured him away from his kitchen. The artichoke soup with black truffles, sea bass with spices, and veal kidneys in mustard-spiked jus reveal the magnitude of his talent, and his mille-feuille is an instant classic. If the waiters see you are relishing a dish they won't hesitate to offer second helpings, so wear stretchy clothes. Half portions allow you to graze your way through the menu -- unless you choose a blowout feast for EUR 230 or EUR 285 -- and reasonably priced wines are available (though beware the cost of wines by the glass). Best of all, the atmosphere is joyful because Savoy knows that having fun is just as important as eating well.
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