Regulars at this popular and rather chaotic no-frills Chinese restaurant order the soup: a rich broth with a nest of thick noodles garnished with dumplings, barbecued pork, or smoked duck. Main courses are generous—the best are made with shellfish—and the Peking duck is also excellent. Service is brisk, so plan on having your coffee at a nearby café instead, but this place is quick, easy, and a far more reliable bet than the countless Asian traiteurs selling microwave-reheated food of suspect origins.
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