In this split-level, dark-wood bistro between Bastille and République, chef Rodolphe Paquin applies a disciplined creativity to earthy French regional dishes. The menu changes regularly, but typical options are a salad of haricots verts topped with tender slices of squid; scallops on a bed of diced pumpkin; juicy lamb with white beans; game dishes in winter; and old-fashioned desserts like baked custard with tiny shell-shape madeleines. In keeping with cost-conscious times, he whips up a bargain three-course lunch menu for EUR 17 that doesn't skimp on ingredients—expect the likes of homemade pâté to start, followed by fried red mullet or hangar steak with french fries, and chocolate tart. The wine list is very good, too, with some bargain wines from small producers.
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