$$, Bistro, Bastille/Nation
Fodor's Review:
In this split-level, dark-wood bistro between Bastille and République, chef Rodolphe Paquin applies a disciplined creativity to earthy French regional dishes. The menu changes regularly, but typical are a salad of haricots verts (green beans) topped with tender slices of squid, scallops on a bed of diced pumpkin, juicy lamb with white beans, and old-fashioned desserts like custard with tiny madeleine cakes. In keeping with cost-conscious times, he whips up a bargain lunch menu that doesn't skimp on ingredients -- expect the likes of homemade pâté to start, followed by fried red mullet or hangar steak with French fries, and chocolate tart. The wine list is very good, too, with some bargain wines from small producers.
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