If you loved Benoît before it became the property of Alain Ducasse and Thierry de la Brosse—the pair that revived Aux Lyonnais—chances are you'll adore it now. Without changing the vintage 1912 setting, which needed nothing more than a minor dusting, the illustrious new owners have subtly improved the menu with dishes such as marinated salmon, frogs' legs in a morel-mushroom cream sauce, and an outstanding cassoulet served in a cast-iron pot. Alain Souliac, who previously worked for Ducasse in the French Basque country, keeps the kitchen running smoothly, and the waiters are charm incarnate. It's a splurge to be here, so go all the way and top off your meal with tarte tatin that's caramelized to the core or a rum-doused baba.
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