To taste the cooking of one of the city's great chefs, you no longer need to pay for the sumptuous backdrop once provided by the Hotel Crillon: Dominique Bouchet has left that world behind for an elegant bistro where contemporary art brightens cream-painted walls, and he seems all the happier for it. On the menu, refined French technique meets country-style cooking, as in leg of lamb braised in wine with roasted cocoa bean and potato puree, or a chocolate éclair with
black cherries and ice cream. Sometimes the dishes can get a touch too complicated, but the warm and very professional service makes up for it. If you're feeling indecisive, you might treat yourself to the €105 tasting menu: a succession of six small plates followed by a dessert.