If you can't fathom paying EUR 200 and up per person to taste the cooking of Pierre Gagnaire, the city's most avant-garde chef, at his eponymous restaurant, book a meal at this, his fashionable fish restaurant, instead. At Gaya Rive Gauche, Gagnaire uses seafood as a palette for his creative impulses: expect small portions of artfully presented food, as in a seafood gelée encircled by white beans and draped with Spanish ham, or cod "petals" in a martini glass with soba noodles, mango, and grapefruit. Don't miss the desserts, one of Gagnaire's great strengths. Aim for the main-floor room, with its fish-scale wall, natural lighting, and bar for solo diners.
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