If you can't fathom paying upward of €200 per person to taste the cooking of Pierre Gagnaire (the city's most avant-garde chef) at his eponymous restaurant, book a table at his fashionable fish restaurant. At Gaya Rive Gauche, Gagnaire uses seafood as a palette for his creative impulses: expect small portions of artfully presented food, as in a seafood gelée encircled by white beans and draped with Spanish ham, or cod "petals" in a martini glass with soba noodles, mango,
and grapefruit. Don't miss the desserts, one of Gagnaire's great strengths. Aim for the main-floor room, with its fish-scale wall, natural lighting, and bar for solo diners.