Passed down from mother to daughter, "the Swan" is decorated with homey touches like hand-sewn curtains, country quilts, and white wooden furniture. Renovated bathrooms are in marble, and older ones have mosaic tiling. Book early for the larger rooms, which include Nos. 16, 26, 35, and 41. Ancient wooden beams run the length of the two stairwells, which makes for uneven stepping that challenges even the most agile guests. Pros: spotless rooms and bathrooms; central location on a pedestrian street; good value. Cons: old building with small rooms; no elevator; not the most attractive area of central Paris; can be intimidating after dark.
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