La Villette once housed the city's meat market, and this brasserie devoted to fine beef (whether French or Irish) soldiers on as if nothing has changed. If you're beginning to tire of the Flo brasserie formula (the Flo chain owns such historic brasseries as La Coupole, Le Balzar, and Brasserie Flo), it's worth the trek to this far-flung neighborhood to sample one of the 16 takes on the beef theme (plus a gargantuan marrow bone), or good fish and seafood dishes, such as sole or scallops (in season). You'll find bon vivants from all over Paris in the buzzy dining room.
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