If you love Baccarat's Cristal Room, you'll simply adore the swank Murano Urban Resort's restaurant in the achingly chic northern Marais. There's nothing subtle about the dining room, whose ceiling drips with white tubes of various lengths, so dress to the nines and arrive with plenty of attitude (or brace yourself with three test tubes of alcohol at the bar). Chef William Rollet puts the emphasis on the product with dishes like Breton sea bass with truffled asparagus ravioli. If you can survive the sneering once-over at the door, surprisingly good-humored dining-room staff add to the experience.
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