Bois de Vincennes

Bois de Vincennes Review

Like the Bois de Boulogne to the west, the lovely Vincennes Woods was landscaped by Napoléon III, and it is a much-loved retreat on the city's eastern border. The bois traces its roots back to the 13th century when Philippe Auguste created a hunting preserve here in the shadow of the royal Château de Vincennes. In 1731, Louis XV created a park and opened it to the public. Today, the bois features lush lawns, a flower garden, and summertime jazz concerts. Rowboats are for hire at the two lakes, Lac Daumesnil, which has two islands, and Lac des Minimes, which has three. There's also a zoo and a racetrack, the Hippodrome de Vincennes, a small farm, several cafés, and an amusement park in the spring. You can rent a bike at the Château de Vincennes métro stop. To reach the park, use the Château de Vincennes stop (Line 1) or Porte Dorée (Line 8).

The imposing high-walled castle was France's medieval Versailles, surrounded by a dry moat and dominated by a 170-foot keep. The royal residence eventually became a state prison, holding illustrious convicts such as philosopher Diderot. The château has undergone a spectacular renovation, and work continues in some parts.

Château de Vincennes. The impressive Château de Vincennes was once the largest château in Europe. On the northern edge of the Bois, it was built and expanded by various kings between the 12th and 14th centuries. Av. de Paris, Bois de Vincennes, 94300. 01-48-08-31-20. www.chateau-vincennes.fr. €8. May-Aug., daily 10-6; Sept.-Apr., daily 10-5. Château de Vincennes.

The Parc Floral de Paris is the Bois de Vincennes's 70-acre park and flower garden. It has a lake and water garden and is renowned for its seasonal displays of blooms. It also contains a miniature train, a game area, and an "exo-tarium" with tropical fish and reptiles; in summer, an outdoor jazz festival makes this the most popular weekend picnic site in the city. Rte. de la Pyramide, Bois de Vincennes. €5. Apr.-Sept., daily 9:30-8; Oct.-Mar., daily 9:30-5. Château de Vincennes.

Parc Zoologique. The 35-acre Parc Zoologique, the largest zoo in France, is closed for renovations until 2014. 53 av. de St-Maurice, Bois de Vincennes. 01-44-75-20-00. Porte Dorée.

An exceptional Art Deco building that once held an African art museum now teems with fish instead of artifacts. The Palais de la Porte Dorée Tropical Aquarium has a basement full of tanks of colorful tropical fish, crocodiles, and turtles, but the building itself is even more captivating; built for the Colonial Exhibition in 1931, it has an ornate facade depicting France's erstwhile overseas empire. 293 av. Daumesnil, Bois de Vincennes. 01-53-59-58-60. €4.50, €5.70 during exhibitions. Tues.-Sun. 10-5:30. Porte Dorée.

Sharing the building is the Cité Nationale de l'Historie de l'Immigration, which focuses on the history of immigration in France through permanent and temporary exhibits. 293 av. Daumesnil, Bois de Vincennes. 01-53-59-58-60. €5. Tues.-Fri. 10-5:30, weekends 10-7. Porte Dorée.