$$$-$$$$, Cafe, Opéra/Grands Boulevards
Fodor's Review:
Haute French
Senderens. Iconic chef Alain Senderens waited until retirement age to make a rebellious statement against the all-powerful Michelin inspectors, "giving back" the three stars he had held for 28 years and juxtaposing modern furniture against the splendid Art Nouveau interior of Lucas Carton (his previous restaurant) before renaming the place after himself. The curvy white new furnishings and craterlike ceiling lights would look at home in an airport lounge. His fusion menu spans the globe, though Senderens has happily reintroduced his famed duck à l'Apicius, which is roasted with honey and spices. Sometimes dishes work, as in warm semi-smoked salmon with Thai spices and cucumber, and sometimes they fall flat, as in a too-rich starter of roast foie gras with fig salad and licorice powder. Senderens has also taken his passion for food-and-drink matches to extremes, suggesting a glass of wine, whiskey, sherry, or even punch to accompany each dish. Upstairs, Le Passage Bar serves sushi, tapas and some of the same dishes as the main dining room.
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