Senderens

Senderens Review

Iconic chef Alain Senderens waited until retirement age to make a rebellious statement against the all-powerful Michelin inspectors, "giving back" the three stars he had held for 28 years and renaming his restaurant (it was Lucas Carton). He also updated the decor, juxtaposing curvy, white, new furnishings, and craterlike ceiling lights against the splendid Art Nouveau interior. The fusion menu spans the globe, though Senderens also, happily, reintroduces the occasional Lucas Carton signature dish such as polenta with truffles in winter. Some dishes work, as in warm semismoked salmon with Thai spices and cucumber, and some fall flat, as in a too-rich starter of roast foie gras with fig salad and licorice powder. Senderens takes his passion for food-and-drink matches to extremes, suggesting a glass of wine, whiskey, sherry, or even punch to accompany each dish. Upstairs, Le Passage Bar serves tapas-style dishes for less than €20 a plate, or €36 for four small courses.