Iconic chef Alain Senderens waited until retirement age to make a rebellious statement against the all-powerful Michelin inspectors, "giving back" the three stars he had held for 28 years and renaming his restaurant (it was Lucas Carton). He also updated the decor, juxtaposing curvy, white, new furnishings, against the splendid Art Nouveau interior. The fusion menu spans the globe, though Senderens also, happily, reintroduces the occasional Lucas Carton signature dish
such as polenta with truffles in winter. Senderens takes his passion for food-and-drink matches to extremes, suggesting a glass of wine, whiskey, sherry, or even punch to accompany each dish. Hours are longer than the usual Paris restaurants, so you can enjoy a late lunch or linger as long as you like. Upstairs, Le Passage Bar serves tapas-style dishes for less than €38 a plate, or €44 for four small courses.