Chef Philippe Delacourcelle knows his cassia bark from his cinnamon thanks to a long stint in Asia. He opened this lively bistro with its purple-gray walls and photos of jazz musicians to showcase his culinary style, rejuvenating archetypal French dishes with Asian and Mediterranean spices. His bargain prix-fixe menus (€13.90 at lunch, €30.50 at dinner) change constantly, but his trademark spiced suckling pig with crisp cabbage is always a winner, as is his rhubarb
compote with gingered white-chocolate mousse. Ask for advice in selecting wine from a list that highlights small producers.