With a passion for the old-fashioned bistro, Alain Ducasse resurrected this 1890s gem by appointing a terrific young chef to oversee the short, frequently changing, and reliably delicious menu of Lyonnais specialties. Dandelion salad with crisp potatoes, bacon, and a poached egg; watercress soup poured over parsleyed frogs' legs; and fluffy quenelles de brochet (pike-perch dumplings) show he is no bistro dilettante. The decor hews to tradition, too, with a zinc
bar, an antique coffee machine, and original turn-of-the-20th-century woodwork. There's a limited-choice lunch menu for €32, but the cacophonous dining room is jammed with traders from nearby Bourse. Tables turn relatively quickly, so despite the gorgeous setting this is not a spot for a romantic meal.