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Fodor's Paris 2014
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The word pinxo (pronounced "peencho") means "to pinch" in Basque, and this is how the food in this fashionable hotel restaurant is meant to be eaten: often with your fingers, and off your dining companion's plate (each dish is served in three portions for sharing). Freed from the tyranny of the entrée-plat-dessert cycle, you can nibble your way through such minidishes as marinated herring with Granny Smith apple and horseradish, and squid cooked à la plancha (on a grill) with ginger and chili peppers. Alain Dutournier, who also runs the more formal Le Carré des Feuillants and the chic bistro Au Trou Gascon, drew on his southwestern roots to create this welcoming modern spot; granted, some dishes work better than others, but it's hard not to love a place that serves fried Camembert croquettes with celery sticks as a cheese course.
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