In a space that was derelict for more than a decade, this Art Nouveau twin of the Musée d'Art Moderne reopened in 2002 as a trendy, stripped-down space for contemporary arts with unorthodox, ambitious programming. There is no permanent collection; instead, dynamic temporary exhibits spread over a large, open area reminiscent of a construction site, with a trailer for a ticket booth. Instead of traditional museum guards, young art students—most of whom speak at least some English—are on hand to help explain the installations. The cultural programming extends to debates, concerts, readings, and fashion shows. There's also a cafeteria, a funky restaurant, an offbeat gift shop, and a bookstore.
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