In a little-known neighborhood west of Place d'Italie awaits a sincere welcome from Madame Laborde, the proprietress. More like her own house, this plain but proper hotel encloses a peaceful green garden. Eight of the rooms have kitchenettes, which can reduce dining-out costs, unless the hotel's pricey L'Auberge Etchegorry restaurant lures you in. Victor Hugo was known to take a glass or two at this outstanding Basque dining spot. Pros: quiet location with a garden; kitchenettes in some rooms; safe residential district. Cons: not very central; no air-conditioning; some noise between rooms.
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