This brasserie, with its turn-of-the-20th-century decor, was a favorite of Hemingway's; today television celebrities, journalists, and politicians come for coffee on the small, glassed-in terrace. Sadly, the kitchen's standards have slipped and a meal in the atmospheric dining room is likely to be disappointing, and expensive—flabby sole meunière is served with soggy boiled potatoes, and even the trademark choucroute is lackluster.
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