People come here more for the bonhomie and the stunning 1896 interior than the cooking, which could be politely described as unambitious. This cavernous restaurant -- the only original fin-de-siécle bouillon to remain true to its mission of serving cheap, sustaining food to the masses -- enjoys a huge following. You may find yourself sharing a table with strangers as you study the long, old-fashioned menu of such standards as pot-au-feu and blanquette de veau. The simplest dishes bring the most satisfaction.
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