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Former Crillon chef Jean-François Piège and Thierry Costes of the fashionable brasserie clan that created Café Marly and Le Georges are behind the revival of this old-world bistro. The space has been opened up to eliminate private booths while thankfully preserving much of its vintage character with globe lights and etched mirrors. Despite its location in the sedate 7e arrondissement, this has quickly become the place to be seen, with food that's a good notch above brasserie fare. A juicy Angus beef hamburger comes with a superfluous shower of Parmesan and ultra skinny fries, while the more sophisticated slow-cooked salmon is accompanied by vegetables from star market gardener Joël Thiébault. For dessert, try the piping-hot churros with chocolate sauce. The new restaurant gastronomique upstairs is ever so chic and a good bit pricier, yet proffers an experience commensurate with the top bistros in town (€99, €119 set menus at lunch and dinner and a €99 three-course menu at lunch that includes two glasses of wine, closed weekends). Reservations are taken exactly six days ahead.
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