Following in the footsteps of Joël Robuchon and Alain Senderens, Christian Constant has given up the star chase in favor of more accessible prices and a packed dining room. In 2006 Constant gave his flagship restaurant a chic new cream-and-brown color scheme, began offering a single EUR 45 set menu (with several choices for each course) and put Stéphane Schmidt in charge of the kitchen while he dashes about the dining room making sure the hordes are happy. And why wouldn't they be? The food is sophisticated and the atmosphere is lively. You can even find signature dishes such as the almond crusted sea bass with rémoulade sauce (a buttery caper sauce), alongside game and scallops (in season) and comforting desserts like pots de crème and chocolate tart. The food is still heavy on the butter, but with wines starting at around EUR 20 this is a wonderful place for a classic yet informal French meal.
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