This elegant establishment off Place Daumesnil—well off-the-beaten tourist track but worth the trip—is overseen by celebrated chef Alain Dutournier while his wife runs the dining room, which combines contemporary furnishings and beautiful ceiling moldings. Dutournier does a refined take on the cuisine of Gascony—a region renowned for its ham, foie gras, lamb, and duck. Most popular with the regulars are the surprisingly light cassoulet (all the meats are grilled
before going into the pot) with big white Tarbais beans and a superb duck or goose confit. There is an ethereal dessert of raspberries, ice cream, and meringue. Prices are steep but there is a limited-choice lunch menu for €42 and a five-course tasting menu at dinner for €62. With some 1,100 wines and 130 Armagnacs to choose from, this is the place to splurge on vintage.