Another rare opportunity to see how cultured rich Parisians once lived, this 16th-century rococo-style mansion contains an outstanding collection of 18th-century artwork in its boiseried (wainscoted) rooms. Ernest Cognacq, founder of the department store La Samaritaine, and his wife, Louise Jay, amassed furniture, porcelain, and paintings -- notably by Fragonard, Watteau, François Boucher, and Tiepolo -- to create one of the world's finest private collections of this period. Some of the best displays are also the smallest, like the tiny enamel portraits showcased on the third floor, or, up in the attic, the glass vitrines filled with exquisite inlaid snuff boxes, sewing cases, pocket watches, perfume bottles, and cigar cutters. There are English-language guides available.
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