Canal St-Martin Review

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Canal St-Martin

Fodor's Review:

The once-forgotten canal has morphed into one of the city's hippest places to wander by day—and party by night. A good time to come is Sunday afternoon, when the Quai de Valmy is closed to cars and some of the shops are open. Rent a bike at one of the many Velib' stations, stroll along the banks, or go native and cuddle quai-side in the sunshine with someone special.

The 2.7-mi canal began life as a source of clean drinking water for Paris, so ordered by Napoléon to improve sanitation and health standards. It opened in 1825 between the Seine at the southern end at Place de la Bastille, and the Canal de l'Ourcq to the north near La Villette. Baron Haussmann later ordered a mile-long stretch of it to be covered—this is today's Boulevard Richard Lenoir—from Rue Faubourg du Temple to the Bastille. These days you can take a boat tour from end to end through the canal's nine locks: along the way, the bridges swing or lift open. An amusing one is the drawbridge with four giant pulleys at Rue de Crimée, near La Villette.

In recent years, gentrification has swept the canal, with artists taking over formerly industrial spaces, and creating studios and galleries. The bar and restaurant scene is flourishing, and small designers have set up shop, fleeing expensive rents in Le Marais. Young families have flocked here as well, undeterred by the area's still-rough edges: the canal is a frequent staging ground for housing advocates protesting on behalf of the many homeless who live along these banks.

To explore this evolving quartier in depth, set out on foot: start on the Quai de Valmy at Rue Faubourg du Temple (use the République métro stop). Here, at Square Frédéric Lemaître, there is a good view of one of the locks (behind you the canal disappears underground). A good place for lunch or a drink is neighborhood favorite Chez Prune at No. 71. As you head north, detour onto side streets like Rue de Lancry, with its fun bar scene and food shops. A swing bridge across the canal connects Lancry to the Rue de la Grange aux Belles. Cross the bridge and take the second right onto Rue Bichat. Midway down the block is the entrance to the courtyard of the massive Hôpital Saint-Louis, built in 1607 to house plague victims and still a working hospital today. The grounds, flanked by grand brick-and-stone buildings with steeply sloping roofs, are worth a look.

Back on Quai Valmy, just before the Rue des Récollets, fashionistas should check out two funky boutiques: Stella Cadente at No. 93 and, next door, one of the larger shops of the Antoine & Lili chain. Just beyond, Jardin Villemin, on the former site of another hospital, is now the 10e arrondissement's largest park (4.5 acres).

If you're in the Canal St-Martin area at night, you can catch a live music show at the Opus club-restaurant at No. 167 Quai Valmy. Point Ephémère, at No. 200, is another happening spot with an art gallery, café, club, and DJ scene. Just past the Place Stalingrad is the Rotonde de la Villette, a lively square with restaurants and twin MK2 cinemas on either side of the canal, with a boat to ferry ticket-holders across. On the approach to Parc de la Villette, there are antiques shops along the quai and a few floating restaurants and theaters. Canauxrama offers 2½-hour boat cruises through the locks (EUR 15 adults). Check the Web site for times (www.canauxrama.com) Embarkation is at each end of canal: at Bassin de la Villette (13 quai de la Loire, La Villette) or Marina Arsenal (50 bd. de la Bastille, Bastille)

  • Metro: Jaurès (northern end) or Bastille (southern end)
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