Perhaps the city's best small museum, the opulent Musée Jacquemart-André is home to a vast collection of art and furnishings lovingly assembled in the late 19th century by banking heir Edouard André and his artist wife, Nélie Jacquemart. Their midlife marriage in 1881 raised eyebrows—he was a dashing bachelor and a Protestant, and she, no great beauty, hailed from a modest Catholic family. Still, theirs was a happy union fused by a common passion for art. For six months a year, the couple traveled, most often to Italy, where they cherry-picked works from the Renaissance, their preferred period. Their collection also includes French painters Fragonard, Jacques-Louis David, and François Boucher, and Dutch masters Van Dyke and Rembrandt. The mansion itself is a star attraction, sweeping the visitor back to the Belle Époque. The elegant ballroom, equipped with collapsible walls operated by state-of-the-art hydraulics, could hold 1,000 guests. The winter garden was a wonder of its day, spilling into the fumoir, where the dashing André would share cigars with the grands hommes (important men) of the day. You can tour the separate bedrooms— his in dusty pink, hers in pale yellow. The former dining room, now an elegant café with an outdoor terrace, has one of the mansion's several stunning ceilings by Tiepolo. Don't forget the free audioguide in English. Plan on a Sunday visit and enjoy the popular brunch (EUR 26) in the café from 11 to 3. Reservations are not accepted, so come early or later to avoid waiting in line.
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