The little cousin of the Grand Palais across the street has a free permanent collection of French painting and furniture, with canvases by Courbet and Bouguereau. The temporary exhibitions are varied. The building itself—a 1902 cream puff of marble and gilt, with huge windows overlooking the Seine—is worth a look. Outside, keep an eye out for two excellent sculptures: French World War I hero Georges Clemenceau, facing the Champs-Elysées; and Jean Cardot's resolute image of Winston Churchill, facing the Seine. Tucked in the courtyard is a quiet garden with palm trees and a café—an ideal spot to rest weary feet.
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