Modern French
Le Georges. One of those rooftop showstopping venues so popular in Paris, Le Georges preens atop the Centre Georges Pompidou. The staff is as streamlined and angular as the furniture, and at night the terrace has distinct snob appeal. Come snappily dressed or you may be relegated to something resembling a dentist's waiting room. Part of the Costes brothers' empire, the establishment trots out predictable fare such as penne with morel mushrooms and raw tuna with a sesame crust. It's all considerably less dazzling than the view, except for the suitably decadent desserts (indulge in the Cracker's cheesecake with yogurt sorbet).
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