Eric Briffard is not the most famous chef in Paris but he is one of the best, as proved by his smooth transition into the role of head chef in one of the city's most deluxe dining rooms. You'll find all the luxury products you might expect—lobster, truffles, game in season—but treated with a light touch that often draws on Asian ingredients such as wasabi or cassia bark. A perfect example is his abalone, a rare shellfish prized by sushi chefs, prepared several ways: raw in a tartare, bathed in a creamy chicken bouillon, meunière-style in watercress sauce, and perched atop a bed of gingered kabocha squash. Desserts are ethereal and service is unfailingly thoughtful: really, the only problem with a meal here is that it has to end. Oh, and that it costs a small fortune—thankfully there is an €110 prix fixe at lunch.