Christian Le Squer is not the most famous chef in Paris but he is one of the best, as proved by his smooth transition from three-star grande dame Ledoyen into the role of head chef in another of the city's most deluxe dining rooms. You'll find all the luxury products you might expect—caviar, truffles, game in season—but treated with a light touch that often draws on Breton ingredients such as oysters or lamb. A perfect example would be his succulent Dublin Bay prawns or his famous Ile de Chausey lobster marinated in citrus and served in a heart of caramelized romaine with a featherlight beurre blanc mousseux. Desserts are ethereal and service is unfailingly thoughtful: really, the only problem with a meal here is that it has to end. Oh, and that it costs a small fortune—thankfully, there is a four-course €145 prix-fixe lunch (€210 for six courses).