Christophe Beaufront belongs to a generation of gifted bistro chefs who have rejected the pressure-cooker world of haute cuisine in favor of something more personal and democratic. The result: delighted and loyal customers. There's a lunch menu for €14.50 (soup, main course, glass of wine, and coffee), and the three-course dinner prix-fixe costs €33. Typical of his market-inspired cooking is his signature pot-au-feu de cochon aux épices, in which spiced pork stands in for the usual beef, and the bouillon is served separately. Homemade desserts and a good-value wine list round off a satisfying experience. Children get an especially warm welcome here. Drop into his épicerie across the street to browse the wine selection or order dinner to go, complete with a returnable cast-iron pot.