Fodor's Expert Review Jadis

There's something very grown-up about the cooking of young chef Guillaume Delage, which isn't a surprise when you learn that he trained with the likes of Michel Bras, Frédéric Anton (of Le Pré Catelan), and Pierre Gagnaire. It's worth making your way to what seems like the middle of nowhere to taste his nostalgic bistro cooking with a modern touch: you might find pâté en croûte among the chef's suggestions, but there are also dishes like the shrimp with saté spices, creamed black rice, and spinach. Though simple, the gray-and-burgundy dining room decorated with mirrors and vintage posters has charm.