If this weren't one of Paris's outstanding wine bars, the wait, attitude, and metal tractor seats might be a deterrent. Yet wine lovers would be hard-pressed to find a better venue for sampling a great list of French wines and inspired selections from Italy and Spain—all sold by the bottle or glass, with suberb cuisine to match. Feast on masterful small dishes like the "coleslaw" of citrusy calamari, black-olive coulis, and a sprinkling of pine nuts; bresaola with apples, spicy mizuna leaves, and dollops of creamy horseradish; and a wedge of Stilton served atop a paste of Speculoos biscuits with poached pears and smoked walnuts. Because getting a reservation at the restaurant across the street is nearly impossible, this is an excellent alternative. Get here five minutes before opening time for a choice table.