Jazz Clubs

Jazz Clubs

The French fell hard for jazz nearly a century ago, during World War I, but the real coup de foudre—literally "lightning bolt" or figuratively "love at first sight"—came after the war when Yank sax man Sidney Bechetand 19-year-old song-and-dance vamp Josephine Baker of St. Louis joined a European tour of the Revue Nègre musical. Baker, or the "Black Venus that haunted Baudelaire," as she was known by French critics, instantly became the sweetheart of Paris. Note: a larger-than-life picture of Baker wearing only a smile, a string of pearls, and a thigh-high skirt today adorns a wall ofhistoric photographs along the platform of the Tuileries métro.

By 1934 France had created its own impressive claim to jazz fame, the all-string Quintette du Hot Club de France, which featured Gypsy guitarist Django Reinhardt and his partner, violinist Stéphane Grappelli. They, in turn, influenced string players from country musicians to Carlos Santana. Reinhardt performed throughout much of World War II in the underground French jazz scene. In the 1950s, Paris grew to become a major destination of the bebop diaspora, and expatjazz musicians including Bechet, Bud Powell, and Dexter Gordon played the venues along with such jazz greats as Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker, and Miles Davis. France embraced the evolving jazz sound that many Americans were still struggling to accept and provided a worshipful welcome to musicians battling discrimination at home. In Paris, Davis said, he was "treated like a human being."

Want to experience a night of jazz yourself?

The French obsession with jazz continues to this day, and travelers seeking a quintessential Parisian experience have the opportunity to hear jazz artists from all over the world nearly any night of the week. Aficionados can choose from traditional jazz to the latest experimental efforts, in clubs ranging from casual to chichi, sedate to hopping.Many venues present a wide range of music: a good option is the double club on Rue des Lombards near Les Halles: Le Sunside specializes in more traditional jazz, and its downstairs sister, Le Sunset, features edgier options.

Music generally begins after 9 PM, so plan accordingly: you can dine at some of the clubs, including Le Petit Journal Montparnasse, or in the Hotel Méridien on the Champs-Elysées, which houses the classy Lionel Hampton Jazz Club.

As everywhere else in the city, the French folks at the clubs tend to dress more stylishly than the average traveler with a limited suitcase, but they're generally a tolerant bunch, particularly in venues frequented by students and in the heart of tourist areas like Caveau de la Huchette, a hot cellar dance club across the river from Notre-Dame.Keep in mind, though, that the French are serious about their jazz: with a few exceptions, the audience is generally focused and quiet during performances.