A Scenic Walk in Montmartre

A Scenic Walk in Montmartre

One of the prettiest walks in Paris begins at the Lamarck-Caulaincourt (Line 12) métro station. Climb the stairs, cross Rue Caulaincourt and look for a second set of stairs at Rue Girardon. At the top is Place Dalida, with a voluptuous bust of the beloved French torch singer (1933-87). The stone house on the right is the 18th-century Château des Brouillards (Castle of the Mist). Turn down the romantic alley of the same name, where the painter Renoir used to live in a small house. Then, from Place Dalida, head down the winding Rue Abreuvoir, one of the most-photographed streets in Paris, which leads past the Maison Rose (famously painted by resident artist Maurice Utrillo). Turn left on Rue des Saules where you can find Paris's only vineyard across from the cabaret Lapin Agile,famously committed to canvas by Picasso and still going strong today. The vineyard produces 125 gallons of Clos Montmartre wine per year (which is aged in the mairie, or "town hall," of the 18earrondissement and sold for charity)—it's hardly grand cru, but the harvest celebration and parade in early October is great fun.

Backtrack up Rue des Saules and turn left on Rue Cortot, where you can find the Musée de Montmartre. Composer Eric Satie, who played piano at the Chat Noir nightclub, lived a few doors down at No. 6, in a closet-apartment 6 feet by 4 feet (with a 9-foot ceiling and skylight). Turn right onto Rue Mont Cenis to the Place du Tertre, a lovely square now nearly ruined by hordes of artists peddling cheap wares and busloads of tourists crowding the mediocre cafés. Easily overlooked is the understated St-Pierre de Montmartre, one of the city's oldest churches. End your walk at Sacré-Coeur basilica, a white confection with Byzantine-style domes.