The Marais City Orientation
Getting Here
The Marais includes the 3e and 4e arrondissements. It's a pleasant walk from the Beaubourg—the area around Centre Pompidou—into the heart of the Marais. Rue Rambuteau turns into Rue des Francs-Bourgeois, which runs right into Place des Vosges. If you're going by métro, the most central stop is St-Paul on Line 1. If you're going to the Pompidou, take Line 11 to Rambuteau. For the Musée Picasso, the closest stop is St-Sébastien–Froissart on Line 8. For the 3e arrondissement, get off at Arts et Métiers on Line 3 or 11, or Filles du Calvaire on Line 8.
Top Reasons to Go
Centre Pompidou. Paris's leading modern art museum is also a vast (and architecturally ambitious) arts center that presents films, theater, and dance performances.
Place des Vosges. The prettiest square in the French capital surrounds a manicured park, where inviting patches of grass are accessible to those needing a siesta.
Musée National Picasso-Paris. Spectacularly renovated, this museum is a must-see for fans of the Spanish master, who painted some of his best work while living in the city.
Jewish history tour. The old Jewish quarter has two world-class sites: Mémorial de la Shoah (the Holocaust Memorial) and the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire du Judaïsme.
No reason at all. Lose yourself in simple pleasures, like exploring the tiny streets near the Centre Pompidou or people-watching in a café on Rue Vieille du Temple.
Making the Most of Your Time
The Marais has something for everyone, and how much time you spend here depends on how much time you have in Paris. One day seems painfully short, but it would allow you to take a do-it-yourself walking tour, peeking into private courtyards and picnicking in the Place des Vosges as you proceed. Leave at least two days if your itinerary includes the Centre Pompidou and the Musée Picasso. In three days you could cover some of the smaller museums, which are well worth visiting as many are housed in exquisite mansions. If time permits, wander to the 3e arrondissement to see the charming streets, away from the crowds, or drop into the quirky science-centric Musée des Arts et Métiers. Sunday afternoon is a lively time to come because many shops are open, notably on Rue des Francs-Bourgeois. This neighborhood thrives after dark as well; business is brisk at cafés and bars—particularly those aimed at the gay community.
Best Cafés
Dame Tartine. Cafés abound around the Centre Pompidou, but this one—overlooking the Stravinsky fountain—is a good choice. You won't go wrong with any of the many tartines: toasts topped with delicious ingredients. 2 rue Brisemiche, Marais Quarter, Paris, Île-de-France, 75004. 01–77–18–88–59.
La Tartine. This calm café on busy Rue de Rivoli is a local favorite with an impressive wine list. Try the €8 French onion soup or indulge in classic French dishes like tartare de boeuf or escargots. 24 rue de Rivoli, Marais Quarter, Paris, Île-de-France, 75004. 01–42–72–76–85; www.latartineparis.fr.
Le Loir dans la Théière. Sink into a shabby armchair at this popular tearoom, whose name translates to "the Dormouse in the Teapot" (from Alice in Wonderland). The savory tarts are stellar, but the real stars are desserts like the decadent chocolate crumble tart. 3 rue des Rosiers, Marais Quarter, Paris, Île-de-France, 75004. 01–42–72–90–61; www.leloirdanslatheiere.com.
