If the Statue of Liberty is emblematic of New York, Big Ben is London, and the Kremlin is Moscow, then the Eiffel Tower is the symbol of Paris. For two years French engineer Gustave Eiffel -- already famous for building viaducts and bridges -- worked to erect this monument, which was designed to exalt the technological era that had begun to shine in the lamp of Edison. It was created for the World Exhibition of 1889, inaugurated by Edward VII, then Prince of Wales, and was still in good shape to celebrate its 100th birthday in 1989. Such was Eiffel's engineering wizardry that even in the strongest winds his tower never sways more than 4 1/2 inches.

Because its colossal bulk exudes a feeling of mighty permanence, you may have trouble believing that it nearly became 7,000 tons of scrap iron when its concession expired in 1909. At first many Parisians hated the structure, agreeing with designer William Morris, who, explaining why he had been spending so much time at the Tour said "Why on earth have I come here? Because it's the only place I can't see it from." Only its potential use as a radio antenna saved the day (it still bristles with a forest of radio and television transmitters). By the time of the German occupation, however, Paris trembled when it was suggested that the 12,000 pieces of metal and its 2,500,000 rivets should be "requisitioned." Today the Tour is most breathtaking at night, when every girder is highlighted in a sparkling display originally conceived to celebrate the turn of the millennium. The glittering light show was so popular that the 20,000 lights were reinstalled for permanent use in 2003; the Tour does its electric shimmy for 10 minutes every hour on the hour until 1 AM in winter and 2 AM in summer. You can stride up the stairs as far as the third floor, but if you want to go to the top you'll have to take the elevator. (Be sure to take a close look at the fantastic ironwork.) The view of the flat sweep of Paris at 1,000 feet may not beat that from the Tour Montparnasse skyscraper, but the setting makes it considerably more romantic, especially if you come in the late evening, after the crowds have dispersed.

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