$$$$, Haute French, Champs-Élysées
Fodor's Review:
A former star -- more of a comet, really -- in the Alain Ducasse galaxy, Jean-François Piège is now establishing his own identity in Hôtel Le Crillon's hallowed 18th-century dining room, updated in muted tones that offset the glistening marble. Born in 1970, he is young enough to play with food -- deconstructing and reconstructing an egg to look like a square marshmallow, its yolk studded with white truffle -- and grown-up enough to serve unabashedly rich classics of French cooking, such as deboned squab stuffed with foie gras. An expert at pairing langoustines and caviar, he has come up with a new version for Le Crillon, wrapping the ingredients in a delicate crêpe. The lunch menu guarantees lashings of luxe for a relatively reasonable EUR 70.
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