The Luxembourg Gardens has all that is charming, unique, and befuddling about Parisian parks: swarms of pigeons, cookie-cutter trees, ironed-and-pressed walkways, and immaculate lawns meant for admiring, not for lounging. The tree- and bench-lined paths are, however, a marvelous reprieve from the bustle of the Quartier Latin. Somewhat austere during the colder months, the garden becomes intoxicating as spring fills the flower beds with daffodils, tulips, and hyacinths, and the circular pools teem with boats nudged along by children. The park's northern boundary is dominated by the Palais du Luxembourg, surrounded by a handful of well-armed guards; they are protecting the senators who have been deliberating there since 1958.

The original inspiration for the gardens came from Marie de' Medici, nostalgic for the Boboli gardens of her native Florence. She is commemorated by the Fontaine de Medicis. One of the great attractions of the park is the Théâtre des Marionnettes, where on weekends at 11 and 3:15, and on Wednesday at 3:15, you can catch one of the classic guignols (marionette shows) for a small charge. The wide-eyed kids might be the real attraction; their expressions of utter surprise, despair, or glee have fascinated the likes of Henri Cartier-Bresson and Franç[cd]ois Truffaut. The park also offers a merry-go-round, swing sets, and pony rides; older visitors should look out for the bandstand -- which hosts free concerts on summer afternoons. Contemporary photography exhibits are sometimes held on the gates near the boulevard St-Michel entrance and there are sometimes temporary art installations inside the park.

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