The Luxembourg has small but adequate guest rooms, fully renovated with bland modern furniture but with chic color schemes; all but two face a courtyard garden. Happily, it has one of the town's best restaurants, Les Quatre Saisons (closed January), set in a bright-red salon, with a seasonal menu and regular favorites like sole with vanilla and regional tripe. Depending on the time of year, choose the honey-roasted ham with melted apples, or braised turbot with sage. Pros: quiet; central, fine restaurant. Cons: unpreposessing lobby; some rooms are on the dark side.
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