Established since 1906 in an old street near the cathedral, this wood-beamed, stone-walled restaurant is a local institution. Character is here a-plenty -- model ships sway overhead, a variety of quirky brass lamps bedeck the walls, the city's steepest, narrowest staircase leads up to the restrooms, and over-dressed bourgeois(es) arrive early to claim the best tables (in the corner beneath the large, pastel-paned windows). But it's the cuisine that keeps them coming back. Fish is a specialty -- try the grilled sole or brill in cider nicely lubricated by some startlingly tasty Quincy (a white wine from south of the Loire). Among the welter of fixed-price menus, the choice extends from plump green asparagus, in lightly whisked butter sauce, to a sagging platter of Normandy cheeses, followed by a copious helping of homemade apple tart or chocolate profiteroles.
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