Opened in 1906 on an old street near the cathedral, this wood-beamed, stone-walled restaurant is a local institution. Character is here aplenty—model ships sway overhead, a variety of quirky brass lamps bedeck the walls, the city's steepest, narrowest staircase leads up to the restrooms, and overdressed bourgeois arrive early to claim the best tables (in the corner beneath the large, pastel-paned windows). But it's Michelle Dufour's cuisine that keeps them coming back. Duckling à la rouennaise (cooked in blood) and fish are specialties—try the grilled sole or brill in cider nicely lubricated by some startlingly tasty Quincy (a white wine from south of the Loire). Among the welter of fixed-price menus, the choice extends from plump green asparagus, in lightly whisked butter sauce, to a sagging platter of Normandy cheeses, followed by a copious helping of homemade apple tart or chocolate profiteroles.
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