There is no more famous omelet in the world than the puffy, pillow-like confection offered at La Mère Poulard in Mont-Saint-Michel (02-33-89-68-68). Whipped with a balloon whisk in a large copper bowl, then cooked in a long-handled skillet over a wood fire, the omelet is delicately brown and crusted on the outside, as soft and airy as a soufflé within. Order the omelet with ham and cheese as a main course, or sugared and flambéed as a majestic dessert.