East-central France can be divided into two areas: the Alps and "not the Alps." The second area includes Lyon -- a magnet for the surrounding region, including the vineyards of Beaujolais -- and the area south of Lyon, dominated by the mighty Rhône as it flows toward the Mediterranean. This chapter is divided into four chunks: Lyon, France's "second city"; Beaujolais and La Dombes -- where hundreds of wine caves alternate with glacier-created lakes and towns built of pierres dorées, soft, golden-tone stones that come from the local hillsides; the Rhône Valley, studded with quaint villages and hilltop castles; and Grenoble and the Alps, where you'll often find down-home friendliness on tap at sky-high ski resorts.