The gateau de foies de volaille aux raviolis (chicken liver ravioli) is a masterpiece at this eatery founded in 1864. The game and steak dishes are robust, as is the cassoulet des escargots (stew of beans, mutton, and snails). For dessert, stick with the terrific cheese selection. The rows of tables, the mosaic-tile floor, and the absence of anything too decorative gives this place the feel of a men's club.
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