The rows of tables, the 1934 mosaic-tile floor, and the absence of anything pretty gives this place the feel of a men's club. The gateau de foies de volaille aux raviolis (chicken liver raviolis) is a masterpiece. The game and steak dishes are robust, as is the cassoulet des escargots (stew of beans, mutton, and snails). For dessert, stick with the fine cheese selection.
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