For 80 years this sawdust-strewn café with homey red-check tablecloths has reigned as one of the city's leading bouchons. It may have overextended its stay, however, by trading on past glory. Some readers report a desultory hand in the kitchen, and native Lyonnais seem to head elsewhere since the legendary Raymond Fulchiron's recent retirement. Still, for an historic setting and a taste of classic Lyon gastronomy, the deftly prepared local classics like boudin blanc (white-meat sausage), boudin noir (black sausage), or andouillettes (veal and pork tripe sausage) are about as good as they get here.
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