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Paul Bocuse Review
Parisians hop the TGV to Lyon, then transfer to a train bound for suburban Collonges-au-Mont-d'Or, simply to dine at this culinary shrine. Whether Bocuse—who kick-started the "new" French cooking back in the 1970s and became a superstar in the process—is here or not, the legendary black-truffle soup in pastry crust he created in 1975 to honor President Giscard d'Estaing will be. So will the frogs'-leg soup with watercress; the green bean–and-artichoke salad with foie gras; and the Bresse wood-pigeon "tripled," consisting of a drumstick in puff pastry with young cabbage, breast roasted and glazed in cognac, plus an aromatic dark pâté of the innards. For a mere €240 per person, the Menu Grand Tradition Classique includes the volaille de Bresse truffée en vessie "Mère Fillioux" (Bresse hen cooked in a pig bladder with truffles), which comes to the table looking something like a basketball—the bladder is removed and discarded revealing a poached chicken within. Like the desserts, the grand dining room is done in traditional style. Call ahead if you want to find out whether Bocuse will be cooking, and be sure to book far in advance.
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