Guest rooms here are decorated in contemporary style, but the real draw is the dining room (closed Monday; no dinner Sunday), where chef-owner Bernard Mathé invents variations on traditional French dishes: among them, smoked duck cutlet in lentil stew and lamb with eggplant in anchovy butter. The number of desserts is overwhelming, but pistachio cake with bitter chocolate is the clear winner. Reservations are essential for the restaurant.
Rte. Nationale 86, Serrières, 07340, France